HIDDEN
BRITTANY
The
invitation to join Torbay CTC on their 2001 Tour
of Brittany
arrived at the back end of 2000. Most rides at about that time had been
‘wet’ to say the least but with a Dinner Dart to Weston Super Mare and
the ride back again I could convince myself I would be fit enough for
a 220km PROFS (Permanent
Ride on Foreign Soil) in February. With the promise of a bit of Brittanique
sun I sent my cheque to organiser Geoff Sharpe only a couple of days after
his 8 January closing date (sorry Geoff, I know what it’s like organising
things so I should have made my mind up sooner).
I
didn’t manage many miles in December and the few I did in January were
either extremely cold, slippery or wet (mostly all 3) so the most I’d
managed in one day was the 107 frosty km of the Watership Down. On another
day I checked 90km of the back end of the Dorset Coast (hope it’s warmer
in April!) and managed a massive 100km over three days on my annual Winter
Weekend with West Kent CTC
in wet, muddy Wales. Many of these miles may have been hard and hilly
but I couldn’t help thinking the 150km or even the 100km ride would be
a better option on the day. A couple of days prior to sailing I received
an e-mail from Graham Brodie telling me that he was now joining the trip
and how unfit he felt. That’s good I thought, someone to struggle round
the 220km with.
I’ve
only sailed from Plymouth once and on that occasion John Thacker from
Exeter drove me there so I didn’t really know where I was going. Geoff
had offered to meet me somewhere on the A38 to guide me in but I thought
why not go one better than that – collecting the organiser sounded like
the best insurance policy, he’ll have the tickets too! Unlike the 2345
Cherbourg trip, Plymouth sailings leave at 2200 hours so it was a real
mad dash from Bournemouth on a Friday after work – particularly with more
than your usual number of mimsas on the A35, it being half term.
We
made it and after locating cabins it was in the bar to meet with the 36
other participants on this Gallic trip. I know quite a few of the Devon
DA from Audax rides – most of my two York Arrow teams were here - Mike
Hunting, Graham Brodie and Mark Williams going for the 220km but Ian Weatherill
took the coffee and cognac option along with many other sensible souls
like the organiser and Linda Johnston, organiser of this PROFS, who clearly
knew what we were letting ourselves in for. Flat my foot! I didn’t stay
long in the bar as the strain of a day’s work and the long drive down,
not to mention the thought of 220km the next day, soon took its toll and
I was off to my hot and noisy cabin. Cabins are down with the engines
on this old Roscoff-bound
ferry. At least my cabin mates were quiet when they came in.
Before
long the bell was being rung and we were in the restaurant for breakfast.
Alighting the ferry proved
a longwinded affair – a number of motorists were presumably still queuing
for their breakfast and not in much of a hurry to move their vehicles.
As soon as there was enough space for a cycle we were on dry land and
10 of us hurriedly set off on our long day’s ride – we had to be back
here in not much over 12 hours to reboard! I made many comparisons between
the Plymouth-Roscoff and
the Poole-Cherbourg sailing and most were in favour of the latter - six
miles from home, newer vessel with cabins up high, a later sailing, more
time in France. Two things the Roscoff journey had going for it were the
price (although I think Geoff used his excellent negotiating skills to
get such a good rate) and the fact that you went back on the return sailing
so could leave all your luggage on board.
It
was an excellent start to the ride gentle climbing and descending and
scenic along the estuary to Morlaix.
Felt very Cornish reminding me of the area around Gweek. The weather was
quite favourable. We’d had a couple of warm sunny days in Bournemouth
and the weekend promised more of the same. There wasn’t much sun about
but the air temperature was at least closer to 10ºC than freezing for
a change so I didn’t don a Goretex for the first time in weeks. We had
to wait for Graham in Morlaix. On a long descent he received a telephone
call from his wife Jackie advising him that the electrics had gone in
the house! I think he managed to point her in the right direction.
After
Morlaix it was time to get to work. From virtually sea level it was a
long long climb to about 300m up. A gentle climb though and this was to
be the picture for the next 150km. Bit of a roller coaster ride across
Brittany – just like on Paris Brest Paris (PBP). There was nothing steep
and I don’t think we dropped below 100m again before Morlaix on the return
but the climbs were long and the descents were excellent value for money.
We found a café to stamp our cards in Belle Isle en Terre but the barman
didn’t seem too keen sell us a drink. He just disappeared and when I went
to the shop next door I found him minding that – no drinks there though
so I went back to a Patisserie we’d passed and found a can of coke – complete
with Pain au Chocolat.
We
were managing to keep up a steady pace so there was time for another Patisserie
stop at Bourbriac (except I went to the Boucherie for something savoury).
I find Brittany not the most spectacular part of the world, no rugged
mountains or pretty gorges but its towns are very stylish and its open
rolling countryside, quiet lanes and sleepy villages make it quite atmospheric
and a joy to cycle in. A Saturday in February seems especially quiet compared
with PBP in August when the streets are full of people wishing you bon
courage and bon retour. We didn’t have the time to lounge around
in cafés and bars but we nonetheless could enjoy a different way of life
for a day.
On
our way to Quintin at 110km the wind came up in our faces quite strongly
and coming from the East it got a bit cool too. A very chivalrous Mike
Parker kindly loaned me his rear wheel, which helped me on this section
that I would otherwise have struggled along. Soon we were raiding the
Epicerie in Quintin and sitting kerbside in the square to replenish burned
calories. Being at the farthest point the conversation turned to ferry
times and how late could we be before we were prevented from boarding.
Then we starting talking next ferry and some one pointed out that the
next one was in a week’s time – there was only a WEEKLY sailing to Roscoff
at this time of year!! What a time to tell me – I had assumed it was tomorrow
– I reckon I would have joined the Coffee and Cognac ride if I’d known!
Quick period of panic, pack up and start heading north west again. At
least the wind was more favourable now but thoughts did turn to Cherbourg
and the fact that I could cycle there before the next ferry from Roscoff.
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